It’s a surprisingly good comparison especially when you look at the reactions: frame breaking vs data poisoning.

The problem isn’t progress, the problem is that some of us disagree with the Idea that what’s being touted is actual progress. The things llms are actually good at they’ve being doing for years (language translations) the rest of it is so inexact it can’t be trusted.

I can’t trust any llm generated code because it lies about what it’s doing, so I need to verify everything it generates anyway in which case it’s easier to write it myself. I keep trying it and it looks impressive until it ends up at a way worse version of something I could have already written.

I assume that it’s the same way with everything I’m not an expert in. In which case it’s worse than useless to me, I can’t trust anything it says.

The only thing I can use it for is to tell me things I already know and that basically makes it a toy or a game.

That’s not even getting into the security implications of giving removedty software access to all your sensitive data etc.

Call me grape cause I’m jelly. That’s a really nice setup.

It’s 0.2 layer height, I wanna say it was 3 layers, but it could have been 4. The green I’m using is opaque at even one layer with these settings though

They’re manual changes. Annoying, but they work for basic stuff.

Gotta be able to boot Nazis. Otherwise it’ll be Nazi bar.

I’m excited to introduce you to this if you haven’t seen it!

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

I use this as a general guide for every time I buy a new material, manufacturer, and/or color of filament. There’s YouTube videos explaining everything every step of the way.

For a new printer (or significant modifications) I’d go through the whole thing. For new filament, if I haven’t used it before, I do flow calibration, temperature tuning, retraction tuning, pressure/linear advance tuning, and max flow tuning, not necessarily in that order. I’ve found that as I’ve learned and experimented more I’ve branched out into more esoteric tools for some things.

My filament printer is a fairly heavily modified ender 3 pro (spider hotend, direct drive, dual z axis, spring steel bed, solid bed spacers, herome gen 7 cooler, cr touch, stepper driver diodes, and an adxl345 waiting for me to mount and wire it… I think that’s it). So I’m not saying this as a Creality hater, I love my ender, I hate their software and firmware. I had a terrible time with their Marlin firmware and ended up building it myself. I’ve since switched to klipper though and highly recommend it, it got me a reasonable quality benchy in around 30 minutes.

My point there is that I have had a hard time with the default profiles across the board, even before the mods. For filament printing I use Prusaslicer, though I do like Superslicer and Orcaslicer seems nice as well, I just have all my profiles built for Prusaslicer and it generally just works.

I’m only adding this because I don’t already see someone mentioning it.

My first thought was bed leveling, because that’s always the first thing, especially with weird surface artifacts.

But looking at the bridging “above” the text and the gaps in the interface between the solid infill and your perimeters I suspect that you’ve got some under-extrusion going on.

Have you tuned your filament? If not I recommend giving that a shot and seeing if it doesn’t clear up those issues.

ETA: I’ve also found that with text printed on the base I have way better luck when I cut it about 1mm deep (for 0.2mm layer heights)

I just “finished” a herome parts cooler upgrade on the E3 pro. And holy removed has it made a difference.

I’m in the process of printing random gardening stuff while I put off setting my Saturn back up. I am like a year behind on printing Loot Studios stuff. I wanna paint some minis so bad.

Disable Auto center then drag it around.

Edit: my reading comprehension kinda sucks sometimes. The original comment shall remain as a monument to my eagerness to help, but unwillingness to fully understand the problem first. :/

Maybe try pulling it through the build plate? I’ve done that but I’m not sure if it complained about the non printing part. Maybe also try cutting the model with the slicer?