Start with more basic troubleshooting:

Mark out 100mm length on the filament, tell the printer to extrude 100mm and see if it did. If not, remove the hotend and try again. If it did now, you have a problem with your hotend.

If it worked both times, your slicer might be setup wrong.

Sorry about that, I didn’t see that.

In an enclosed chamber, I warm it up to ~37°C to allow yeast dough to rise. Works like a charm.

Nice project, I love that you analyzed the audio as well! But really? A barrel jack for charging? Make it USB-C!

$20 is 2/3 of your expenses?

https://jlcmc.com/product/s/T04/TXLB/voron-aluminum-profile-frame-2.4-3d-printing

The extrusions are not the expensive parts… in fact, JLCPCB has them for ~$20.

Which hotend do you use to push >100 mm^3/s?

Lets be real here, a bambulab x1c which is currently considered high speed for >95% of users (which you are asking for here), has a maximum flow rate of 22 mm^3/s which limits it to about 250mm/s for 0.2mm layer height.

An average speed of 300mm per second on every axis? Including acceleration and cornering? How fast are you printing? 1000mm/s?

You might be a factor of 10 off here…

Norway has tacos?

Look at the gcode (with some viewer, like the one from pursaslicer), it will tell you how thick the first layer in your sliced file is. Maybe it is somehow very thick.

It might not be a hardware issue.

What is the third button?

I don’t think I would recommend a printer like this as an entry point.

Go with a Prusa (any of them are good, choose the right size for you). Or if you don’t care that much about open source, check out the bambulab P1P or the other ones from them. They are very good at multi color printing.

Voron is not designed to be cheap. So I guess they have done quite a bit of cost optimization in the design.

We don’t know yet if these optimizations are cutting any big corners, but I guess yes.

For example: at this price point you will likely not get a thick aluminum build plate with AC heater, you will not get a high quality hotend, etc…

What do you mean with fixed? Did you replace the rail?

Does your x-axis have any play at all? Try to pull forward/backward on your (cold!!) nozzle lightly and see if it moves, it should not.

Are you sure you are looking at the right things to improve? Did you check all the screws on the gantry and toolhead? Is your tap (if you use it) solid?

Would be even nicer if they would follow the standard size instead of being 2 mm off in each dimension compared to the nearest “standard”

I use this spool: https://www.printables.com/model/129989

In the description they list several suppliers for refill spools. Personally I am using “DasFilament” and Recyclingfabrik. Both are from Germany so they will probably not be of much help for you.

No, that issue would show a problem with layer stacking as well, which is not the problem here.

Maybe start regulating normal guns more first… 3D printed guns are not a problem anywhere in the world.