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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: June 16th, 2023

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  • Ad others have said, nextcloud won’t rescan or reindex on a reboot. no idea why sync thing does, and surely there must be some way to disable that, too. I’m still hesitant to recommend NC as it’s somewhat fragile, needs way more babying than I’m willing to keep up with and just does too many things, none of them anywhere close to “well”. File sync on real computers works solidly if you have a reliable connection (don’t get me started on Android).

    Have you considered using a real media-hoster, like Jellyfin (or like a dozen others)? Jellyfin works fine for music (the are other music-only solutions though). There are plenty of clients that can stream, and have offline support (download a subset/albums/playlists) for things like laptops, phones, … The server can usually transcode audio formats that a client can’t play, in real-time, if needed.

    Edit: I realize I wasn’t clear as to what this means in practice. You essentially get a self-hosted Spotify. Your library, run from your server, optionally you can connect to it from anywhere.






  • It highly depends on the job. Some companies run fully on Windows, no exceptions. There it obviously would not help. But many still either host various services on Linux, or buy hosting/cloud commuting that is Linux based. There it might even be necessary.

    It also depends on what you mean by “power user”. I would generally advise you to look into the server side of things. In my work, there are zero Linux machines that have a GUI of any kind installed. t The 50 or so Linux machines are all administered through SSH and Shell.


  • I think the typical recommendation would be “the 100” (Link to GitHub). There are a few other projects like it. I think that should be a good starting point for a search though if that particular one is not your cup of tea.

    We’re in the age of easily accessible, great quality hardware though. Just from a performance point, 3d printing will be worse in most respects comparatively (still “good enough” though if using a modem design). Look at a Voron V0 kit as an example (or one of the other printers for ants, if you’re looking for more complexity). Uses nothing but readily accessible parts, reasonably priced and incredible performance.




  • I know this post is quite a few days old already, but I still wanted to add a bit to the discussion.

    The printers you list vary wildly. Both in terms of design goals (“what is the printer meant to do well”) and assembly requirement (from “ready to print in 10 minutes” to “you build this for like a week until something moves”). A Qidi is basically ready to go, a Prusa will take some time to put together (how much depends on if you got it as a kit or fully assembled). A Voron 2.4 takes about a week to build just for the printer, not including ERCF and/or tool changer, let alone tuning of said ERCF/tool changer.

    Also there’s the Troodon, which is a Formbot prebuilt that is closer to a real Voron 2.4 than a Sovol SV08, just to add to your list. It has a stock stealthburner tool head compared to the proprietary thing that Sovol uses, for example.

    I’ve recently built a Voron 2.4r2 (Formbot kit) and loved it, but it was like my 4th printer (and a previous printer was a self-sourced scratch build). So do you have experience with 3d printers, and building them or tinkering with them? I would probably not recommend building one otherwise, but it’s not impossible either, just expect a relatively steep learning curve if you have no prior experience.

    Do you want to mostly just print in colors but same filament ype, or do you want to mainly have multi-material capabilities? So do you need 5+, or would 2 colors with the option to expand work for you?

    If the Voron is a real option for you, I’d highly recommend it. Just make sure you’re going with a can-bus based build/kit (like Formbot). These days I wouldn’t go with an ERCF due to the complexity of building it and then setting it up, as tuning is supposedly a bit of a process. Also you mentioned that the amount of waste during multi-color prints is a real factor for you, and that puts single-nozzle systems inherently at a disadvantage as you just have to purge the hotend on every change. So I would suggest a tool changing system, and I would either start with that (but just 2 tool heads), or add it as the first project. Specifically, I would suggest using the Tapchanger as a modern system. Frankly adding a tool head like that is much less effort than building an ERCF, but also just adds 1 filament each and not like 9 at once.



  • You clearly misunderstood my post. Never said it was apples to apples, quite the opposite. I said the change from 7 to 10 was much bigger (and yes, we’re ignoring Win 8 completely).

    And of course will there be an uptick in Linux usage, he says it would be a “big” one, to which I objected to. Linux desktop has been trending up for a while, and while there might be a slight additional bump, I highly doubt it will be far beyond the margin of error for that general positive trend.

    I also said it “barely” moved (it being the market share), which implies it did move, just not a lot.

    More to the expected magnitude of the 10 EoL date pushing people to Linux, it won’t be anywhere near what valve accomplished with the steam deck. Why? Because people buy a gaming console, they can play games on. Most don’t care that it’s Linux, it’s just a tool/toy. It happens to be Linux underneath. On their PC they actively have to change it themselves. If people bought a PC that had Linux on it, they probably wouldn’t overly notice or care either, but they just can’t. Overwhelmingly they just come with windows, it you want it or not (usually there is no option to not buy that license).

    Edit: what is harder to predict (or guess) is the indirect influence of valves accomplishment. Now that gaming on Linux it’s actually viable, this might actually open the door for more people to give it a go. But as per usual with these things, it’s probably less people who actually do it than one would intuitively expect or hope.

    Edit 2: changed Vista to Win8



  • Let me put it this way: I don’t own a car.

    I do own 3 bikes: normal, electric, electric-cargo. Train gets used for everything else. Tram within my city, but the city is small enough that I can reach most of it by bike (say up to 10km). Intercity (or equivalent) for cross-country journeys. Usually that’s faster than going by car anyway, and I don’t have to actively drive but can watch a movie or play games or whatever.


  • I’m sure the official slicer will have a good profile, maybe the speed for outer walls accidentally got changed to 1 mm/s? I don’t usually use Cura (that is what their slicer is based on), but I think to change speeds at all you need to hit “show advanced” or something? So if you didn’t change anything, that is even less likely.

    If it’s real pauses (print head stops completely), I have even less ideas what that could be.

    When I get back home I can try to see what I get with your settings, probably just resetting everything should also work for you though.



  • A good rule of thumb is to just always use 0.2mm layers unless you have a very good reason not to.

    That being said, this doesn’t explain your truly nonsensical time prediction. It would just be double, since you have twice the layers to print. Like someone said, a few hours would be reasonable, certainly less than a day even with very fine detail.