If it’s stripped, I doubt chasing the threads with a m4 tap will accomplish much. Tapping it for the next size up (m5) seems like a good choice.
What would you consider a high quality tap or die? I have a cheap(er) set that I got at home cheapo. With how little use it gets, its biggest issue is surface rust from sitting in my garage 24/7.
Was the hot end pre-assembled or did you assemble it? I suspect you have a mechanical issue, but it might just be e-steps.
Suggestions:
Pull the nozzle off, measure say 110 mm of filament upstream of your extruder motor, make a line or attach a piece of tape, extruder 100mm, and see how close to 100mm you are. No nozzle means you can do this cold so you’ve eliminated 2 variables: a nozzle clog and temp. More detailed instructions
Once you get that sorted, do a PID tune and run the 100mm extrusion test again with your nozzle attached at say 230. Different number? My money would be on a partial nozzle clog.
Finally, temp tower. Not being able to extrude below 220 seems very weird. How fast are you trying to print?
Ah, sorry. That does sound a bit hot for PLA. I still suggest a temp tower. If you’re having bed adhesion issues, have you cleaned your bed with dish soap lately? Be sure to use only paper towel to clean/dry it - not a sponge or towel. If that’s impractical, I’ve found Windex to work better than IPA.
For PETG that’s not that hot. On my i3 clone I was usually 70 bed and 230-235 nozzle. I would try a temp tower and do what looks best. Based on what you’ve said so far, temp does seem like a possible culprit.
That you’re looking for is called a flange mount. If you search your favorite search engine with “2mm flange mount” you’ll find some results. I do wonder how much torque you’ll be able to transfer, but given the shaft size I suspect you’re not looking at big loads.
They are harsh chemicals and people definitely aren’t even disposong of them correctly most of the time
This is what really gets me with resin printing :(
Aluminum’s expansion coefficient is 0.000023m/C. Using my Voron, let’s say the z extrusions are 530mm long and my extrusions go from 22 °C to 55 °C. This means they grow 0.35mm. That’s in total, so the effect at the print head isn’t 0.35mm, but let’s say my gantry rides 25% of the way up. That’s 0.0875mm, which is roughly 3x the z-offset of my last print.
2.4 owner here. Happy to hear some feedback on the SV08, it looks like a pretty good deal.
Fast (printed something that took 26 hours on the Ender, and it took less than 4 on the SV08
I’m surprised you saw that much of a speed improvement, but I guess I ran my old i3 clone somewhat fast. My print times were a bit faster on my Voron, thanks to cranking speed and acceleration, but the biggest time savings came from taking advantage of the much better hot end and using a 0.6mm nozzle with thicker line widths (I can cover nearly 2.0mm with two perimeters) and thicker layers (0.3 on most prints these days).
Finicky for the initial z-offset. Heat soak the bed for 30 min at 65 degrees, then run the automatic z-offset
Were you homing z with the bed cold? If homing z involves touching the build plate, I could see this. You could probably just adjust your start g-code to accommodate this. One of the nice things about the 2.4 is that the z end stop is bolted to the frame, so as long as your print routine is consistent you can dial it pretty easily.
That said, just wait until you enclose your printer. The frame will grow in z fairly significantly as it heats up. I’ve not let my printer heat soak, printed a number of sequential parts in one print, and watched the first layer squish getting worse and worse with each sequential part. Eventually filament won’t even stick to the build plate, so you need to tweak z-offset.
If you’re a Klipper user, odds are you’ll have easy access to both print hours and filament length extruded. Some marlin printers also track this information as well.
Granted, nozzle wear is also filament specific, but it’s better than nothing.
Let’s start backwards:
All of this sounds somewhat expensive TBH. Consider why you’re considering a new printer then ask yourself what on the market will help meet those needs - especially at your price point.
Very cool! What kind of optical quality do you get? The action shot on thingiverse is pretty low resolution :( what does it look like at higher magnification? Any depth of field fun going on thanks to the big sensor?
A few days ago were you printing the same part or a different one? Has anything at all changed with your setup or slicing?
Things I would go after, in order:
I’m personally not a fan of glue or adhesion aids, but to each their own. I’ve had the magnetic build plate pulled up, along with the print, from my bed due to warping in the past, but the warping was due to printing a big part in too cold of an environment. Once I addressed that, my problem went away.
Just an option to throw on the table: https://openscan.eu/
What are you overwhelmed with? Which option to go with? What to expect as far as post processing? Accuracy? Something else?
at least for the tap carriage and mount.
I think Microcenter only carries the ‘full’ CNC kit, which was pre-tap when I bought mine
Layer lines are unavoidable imo, I’ve sorta just come to terms, I think I run a tad hot and haven’t fully tuned my profiles, but happy with it for my purposes
Layer lines are one thing, but them shifting around is very annoying. I don’t know if it’s completely a ‘me’ thing or if a large chunk of the people who posts things online only go for a beauty shot.
For example:
compared to:
(open the images in a new tab, Lemmy doesn’t always let you view them full size…)
I tend to run fast, but I’ve found that Polymaker’s ASA will print happily at 230-235 on my machine. Maybe slower + cooler would help my results. I should try a few sequential objects to find out.
Don’t get me wrong, the 2.4 is a massive improvement in quality over what I was turning out on my i3 clone.
I do it right after plate prep/cleanup
What is this plate prep you speak of? I kid, but I’m also happy that I (very rarely) have to clean or do anything to my build plate.
LEDs I’m mixed on, I moved my gantry cam because they seemingly were aimed right at it and you couldn’t see anything. I keep thinking about a nozzle camera, but with my current setup I really don’t feel like running another umbilical and I’m not 100% sold that it’d survive or really be that handy.
No cameras here. The lighting at the top of the frame is great for letting me see the first layer, which is really all I need to see. Now that I got z-calibration up and running, I rarely have to fiddle here. The only spaghetti I’ve encountered has been due to ASA warping, but now that I know that was chamber temp related it should be easy to avoid.
How is the rapido? I’m using dragon HF/UHF for spares and using my existing v6 nozzles, have heard the rapido has some good results.
All in, I like it. It heats up amazingly quickly compared to the extruder on my i3 clone - literally 10s of seconds. Mine doesn’t ooze or string at all and retraction tuning is a piece of cake (basically any value works fine). One tool nozzle changes are nice, but I honestly don’t change my nozzle very often. I’ve run TPU, PETG, and ASA through it without issues. The HF Rapido, which is the one I would suggest going with on a stealthburner due to height, runs v6 nozzles which is also nice. Stealthburner installation isn’t hard, but you do have to pull the bowden coupler off the top of the Rapido.
I’ve run a few ASA prints at 30-35 mm^3 feed rates and was able to do so without needing to touch my extrusion temperature. I can’t say the same for PETG - that topped out at around 20-25 mm^3 without increasing temperature. What kinds of things do you print? Are you OK with using thicker layers and bigger extrusion widths? You won’t be able to easily crack 30 mm^3 feed rate if by moving your toolhead fast - you’ll need thick(er) extrusion widths and layer heights. Play around in your slicer, all the slic3r derivatives will let you view volumetric flow on your sliced gcode. I’m not sure the extruder is worth it if you’re not going to take advantage of its ability to flow filament quickly.
USB > CAN IMO, but as I said in my post that’s going to require some printed parts which means I need to fix my wire break, which means the printer will be working again, which means I can put off a decision for a while.
LDO’s nighthawk looks very tempting though. I’ll probably buy the parts, fix my printer, print what I need, and put it all aside for my next wire break.
Are those machined idler blocks‽
They are! If you live near a microcenter, they were selling chaotic lab’s machined parts kit for significantly cheaper than you could buy it online. It was rebranded, but the inserts inside the box had chaotic labs written all over them.
If not you have some really solid prints!
If you dig through my post history you can find examples of prints off the Voron. X-Y is fairly solid, but I haven’t spent the time to tune input shaping so it has some ringing. Z on the other hand… Shine a hard light at a steep angle and you’ll see layer lines galore from the X-Y start point of each layer moving around slightly. I chased that for a bit, and made some improvement, but without input shaping and not wanting to slow down it’s probably as good as it’s going to get with ASA right now.
There’s also the whole z-expansion thing. With 4x bed fans, the frame does grow enough in z to impact height over time. If printing sequential parts, first layer squish will get worse and worse for each part if I don’t let the printer soak for a bit.
Impressed with how clean everything is.
As you said, vacuuming lol. It’s amazing how much crud accumulates on the panel under the build plate. It does take a while for it to build up, but since it can’t go anywhere it does catch the eye.
Instead of running LEDs to the toolhead. It’s cheesy and heavy, but rule of cool right
That does look pretty cool. My tool head has zero lights in it, so I might be the antithesis of cool :( I do have 3x Daylight on a stick installed though. They provide a pretty solid light source for checking adhesion and what not.
If you don’t feel like printing parts, could run the usb umbilical through the chains
I haven’t found a USB cable rated for such a small bend radius with any kind of reasonable service life. I have considered a non-USB cable to run the USB signal over, like chainflex cf9. Not sure how well that would work.
Is your other printer still up? Having a backup has come in really handy
It is, but I’m probably going to be parting ways with it soon since it hasn’t been used since I got the Voron up and running. The Voron has around 750 hours on it and the only issues have been a few wire breaks in the chains (not enough wire slack when I built it) and me botching a repair of my Rapido (if you overtighten those tiny screws you’ll crimp the tiny heatbreak tube). Wire repair is easy enough to do and doesn’t require printing anything.
Silicone “springs”, plus printed thumbwheels without a ton of clearance for the leveling screws, really helped my i3 clone a lot. I could go multiple prints without having to relevel! It was like a dream.
The perimeter does seem a little squished, but the lines making up the fill look pretty good. It could just be the lighting.
Too much squish = ripples and I don’t see any of those.
I’ll happily comment! Hopefully that will spark some others. If/when I make something interesting or mess around with my printer I’ll be sure to post it here. Meanwhile, !beebutts@lemmy.world and a few other gardening and photography related communities are right up my alley.
My question was rooted in how you would know the quality/hardness of the steel at time of purchase - especially as a (fairly) layperson.
I think my set is dewalt. It included taps, dies, and drill bits for M3-M7. I don’t think I’ve ever used the drills, and the have gotten a lot more use than the dies, but I think I’ve used almost everything in the kit more than once. Before kids, it was cars. Post kids, it’s mostly cheap Chinese furniture my wife buys that I have to chase threads in to get it to assembly well.
I’ve had pretty good success sizing 3D printed holes to be interference fit. That’s how I designed/printed the bed leveling thumb wheels for my i3 clone. They backed off far less frequently than the stock metal once.