These look like the little flying sensor balls from Twister.

I like Prusa as a company but their products are nowhere near as competitive as they were 2 years ago when every printer was a bed slinger. The fact that they still want $1,000 for a fairly basic bed slinger is pretty ridiculous.

Inwas just looking at these a few days ago and I think there are two companies, Pebblebee and Chipolo. I read the Google network is opt-in (probably a good thing privacy wise but not great for tracking) so they’ll only ping off other phones that have opted in to the network. Samsung has their SmartTag, and Amazon has something as well.

What kind of printer is it? Do you maybe have a direct drive extruder while using Bowden style retraction settings?

This is a result of the FDA decimating the entire industry and forcing everyone into disposable products.

99% of the old refillable products and juice were banned putting all those companies out of business.

Does your model have a bottom or is it just a hollow cylinder that’s open on both ends?

I recently got an X1C after several years with an Artillery Sidewinder X2 and all I can say is that while the AMS does have a lot of waste when doing multiple colors per layer, you can tune it to waste less and purge into infill, and the quality and reliability of the printer means I’m wasting a ton less of filament because I’m not getting failed print after failed print.

Banks aren’t much better. Up until just a couple years ago, the Treasury Direct website (to buy bonds/etc from the US Treasury) forced you to use a god damned on-screen keyboard to input your password and the passwords were not case sensitive. I’m pretty sure it also only read the first X number of characters of your input because I recall that people tried typing extra characters after their passwords and it would still accept it as valid, though I could be conflating this with some other archaic site.

It’s absolutely not accurate for small objects. I had a few laying around and was interested in making one but didn’t bother until a coworker asked me to print out a custom part for one of his Gundam models. I threw it together (using the better XBOne Kinect) and tried to scan the 4" tall Gundam and just got a little blob regardless of which method I used to scan (both rotating the object or rotating the Kinect around the object). I think it would definitely be more useful for something like OPs project or scanning something much larger.

I also used the 360 Kinect to build a kinetic sandbox which operates on the same principle but without the same output and that worked really well.

I don’t know what your access to Xbox parts is like, but an Xbox Kinect can be used for this with a simple USB adapter that connects to a laptop.

I’ve never heard of this type of conversion and looked up some images. Does the bed really only have a drive screw and some rods in the far back for support? Seems like having a heavy print on the bed could cause some issues with flexing and binding.

Maybe “small orifice” triggers you like words such as “moist” does with some people?

In addition to the other suggestions, you might try to dry the filament longer like 8-12 hours.

Be careful printing filaments like glow in the dark, shimmer, marble, galaxy, wood, etc with particles in it since they can clog up the small orifice of the nozzle.

Yeah I meant it as more a heads up if someone finds themselves in a scenario like you described where their bed probe is on the fritz and they’re hoping to work around that.

Someone took Monster’s “$100 gold plated HDMI” cable and one-upped it.

Seems like a more efficient choice but be wary (weary?) that some printers will unlock the motors after sitting for X amount of time without any movement or commands, which will require you to home again anyways.

This seems ideal if you’re running prints back to back though.

Damn bro, this is like seeing an 8-slot VCR or 50 disc CD changer.

Ditch the SD card all together and get a cheap SSD to use as the boot drive instead.

Looks like you need to get a second one!