If I recall correctly that hole goes all the way through the extrusion.

Worst case you can use a bolt and nut.

Best upgrades for me was the following in order of overall impact

Klipper
BTT Skr mini e3v3 board
Silicon bed spacers
Klackender mod by KevinAkaSam
G10 build plate
Orbiter extruder and dragonfly hotend for direct drive
Belted Z mod by KevinAkaSam

More recent EBB36 canbus for the tool head mainly because it frees up some ports on the control board for other things like my Nevermore.

For overall quality and reliability the following have the biggest impact.

Ensuring the physical frame is as square as possible. As well as adjusting and shimming things such as folded aluminum foil under the Z extrusions to get them square with the base.

The board and Klipper are huge since it makes it easier to use the klack probe (Klicky for ender) and the silicone spacers allow me to dial in the screws with adjust_screws.

And skew correction because my X gantry is twisted (tested that on granite counter top) and after I’ve done everything else to ensure it’s physically right i still had to work around some of it with software.

Now I can just fire it up and print PLA, ABS (it’s in a grow tent enclosure), PETG and TPU without any issue.

The g10 plate works great with all of them, Klipper can compensate for any warping, build offset as long as the screws are properly adjusted (which I test every couple of months or after I’ve had a print that really didn’t want to come off.

I’m building a trident myself right now and I’m using the “Frankender” to do it with really great quality results.

What kind of printer is it?

And if you’re doing direct drive the more constrained path wouldn’t be a benefit. I’ve already purchased wider ID tubing for my trident build.

Depending on what it has to be printed out if your local library might be a good choice if they offer the service.

Possibly a little too close to the bed. Causing filament to push out and overlap beyond where it should.

Exactly. And in such a scenario it becomes an issue for Kinkos

Issue here is that what’s in a safe deposit box isn’t also being shared/distributed. It is locked away.

If, however, they made copies of the contents of a box and put it in other boxes … and it came out somebody used that for CSAM then there probably would be some kind of liability.

Besides CSAM there’s also copyrighted material, etc which section 230 kind of covers but even then gets tricky since there’s a duty to respond to DMCA takedowns in order to get safe harbor protections.

I actually used this earlier myself. I also like to use the negative modifier which will “cut” the text from the part

Besides the wear already mentioned you’ll definitely want to redo all your tuning. Retraction, pressure advance, etc is very different at that size. That applies to any nozzle diameter change but especially when you go smaller.

Also, if you’re going small for detail you may also want to focus on slowing down and finding the right temp to speed balance. Especially since there’s no point upping flow and losing quality.

I’ve done it a few times and had some luck but man the time to print was a pain. That being said I’ve never done anything like mini figs with a smaller nozzle but some have so definitely look for some resources there since the people who do that would be the best ones to give tips on getting quality from small nozzle FDM

How do you feel about stomaching 4chan for a few weeks?

Ahh. I see that now. Not cycling like it normally would.

That’s worrying then. He can see the wires broken but it still has enough connectivity to keep chugging.

On the plus side if the thermistor broke enough that it would keep pumping heat into the system then thermal runaway protection should trigger at least.

I think I need more coffee. Does the chart show where the thermistor failed?

I’m kind of worried that it’s not obvious and if it happened to me I’d miss it.

Or is it that it doesn’t show? And, if so, that’s worrying since thermal runaway protection may not trigger properly.

And temp stability too which is just as important.

The slightest draft of cold air and my ABS prints go bad fast

Filament spool clips, small zip tie extrusion clips for various electronic bay updates

I think it’s so you can set it on a desk, have the screen at eye level while using a connected keyboard and mouse.

Especially when it’s running hot… extended heat and bending forces just makes me nervous.

I love the concept though and doing something like this on the back hinge in a scenario where it’s docked but allowing it to be slight open like a clamshell would be cool.

You could more easily vent the heat, the “back” the laptop is pretty resilient as long as you’re sharing the weight with the bottom and top (not just the hinges)

And in the case of a 3d printer after so many seconds of now power what id use one for would be to cut off the bed and hotend, list the head and then run the part cooling fan full blast until power went out.

The print would be ruined but less likely to have heat creep and jams when the power goes out leaving the existing melted plastic to wick up into the heat break when the cooling fan goes out. And less likely, but technically possibly, the nozzle, still not sitting on one piece of plastic with enough heat to scorch or worse.

Not natively no. What you’re looking for is this

Achieve true 3D printing with non planar slicing Note: Check the update below

Conical Slicing: A different angle of 3D printing

Not something easily done with slicers and there are hacks to do things like this but nothing that works out of the box and it’s a tough challenge with various nozzles, toolheads, material shrink properties

Edit: More recent update that could be of interest

Non-planar 3D printing in a modern slicer thanks to the community