Which then gave us orcaslicer (fork of bambu) which has been a godsent for having my mainsail UI in the slicer itself.
Which then gave us orcaslicer (fork of bambu) which has been a godsent for having my mainsail UI in the slicer itself.
ASA and ABS definitely do better at elevated chamber temps. What temp is enough I can’t say but I still saw improvements when going from 50 to 70c. Higher temps also let you use more fan speed without the added risk of warping so you’ll probably see better overhangs even though the temps are higher.
Id start with adding some chamber temp sensors first so you can measure what difference you are making with the other mods.
Using 4 mm abs panels I saw about a 15c improvement by just throwing a fleece blanket over the printer, so that might be an easy fix if you don’t print large parts frequently. Although higher temps are also great for layer adhesion on smaller parts.
Yeah ridga or vzhextrudort style gears definitely help greatly. You could do a mihai style test to see if the artifacts on the i3 are mostly extruder related or from the XY motors.
Tuning drivers consistently for quality is going to require an oscilloscope, although there are some experiments with attaching an accelerator to the motor while doing a frequency sweep.
Of course you could just change settings and see if there is a visual difference, but there are too many settings and combinations to make that realistic.
What chamber temp are you using for such a large part? I’d recommend at least 70+C but that might be hard to reach with acrylic panels.
Your bed will also warp due to the heat since its rigidly mounted.
Surface quality is also driver (+ driver settings) and motor related, and even the combination of them.
You only calibrate E, calculate for XYZ.
Calculate the rotation distance for the Z, if it doesn’t move the correct distance when asked you have a broken part.
Only downside is abysmal flowrates with hardened steel unless you’re using a hardened cht. Even the clone hardened steel chts are fine since its actually only the tip of the nozzle that wears fast.
Thinking about this again, could it be you have something like “wait for layer time” on and a very high minimum layer time set for your petg profile?
If its stopping 10 to 20 seconds there’s definitely something in the gcode making the printer hang. I’d try slicing the file again with a different slicer to be sure.
What printer do you have? https://youtu.be/Hvw3DrVAeTA?si=Pfy8z7OdlsybvbMN It could be this issue but that wouldn’t be material dependent but might show up more with petg since it’s more runny than pla.
Simple, just don’t ever swap spools after opening one.
New revisions of the printer design itself of course.
Don’t go for the TL smoothers but get new drivers instead. A btt Pico or skr mini would probably be enough for your needs. Instead of a magnetic pad + plate you could use g10 fr4 fiberglass which is cheaper but both work great.
For a probe see if there’s a quickdraw or klicky mod available since it’s cheaper and more reliable than a bltouch (clone).
But you should definitely have quite a capable printer with just a few small additions.
Stop buying printers and start printing printers. That’s were the real addiction starts.
14mm³ isn’t even enough for an ender imho. Sensor is cool and all but it’s about the same cost as a vzhextrudort and Goliath or basically any other high-end hotend and extruder combo.
I’ll try once I get some white filament in. Color change between 2 brands of black pla doesn’t seem worth it :)
You got the stl or step? I’d like to print one aswell
You can just install windows 11 on the 8370 build, if you make the install drive with Rufus you can disable the compatibility checks.
We are already having wifi 6 routers being replaced with 6e capable ones.
Just don’t ask about how few of the devices used actually support 6ghz.