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Hey 👋 I’m Lemann: mark II

I like tech, bicycles, and nature.

Otherwise known as; @lemann@lemmy.one and @lemann@lemmy.world

Dancing Parrot wearing sunglasses

  • 1 Post
  • 47 Comments
Joined 11 months ago
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Cake day: December 22nd, 2023

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  • AFAIK on Windows the physical disk containing the partition needs to be marked offline in Disk Management, and the disk or a partition given exclusively to VirtualBox running as administrator, otherwise access is limited to read-only

    I would suggest checking some other sources as well, just in case this has changed over the years. If you do successfully pass the physical partition into VirtualBox read-write, you might need to set up a virtual disk with grub to boot into your physical Linux partition



  • I’m rooted to…

    • backup & restore my apps as I please (as well as scheduled backups to my SD card)
    • BMS control to keep my battery in good health
    • Automation app for automating stuff (like Tasker)
    • revoking typically unrevokable permissions from system and Google apps
    • To actually feel like I own my device.

    If I wanted a heavily curated (and somewhat locked down) experience, I’d be in the Apple ecosystem - don’t know why Google thinks it’s a great idea to force this ideology onto practically all Android users…

    Similar situation with that additional warning for sideloading apps - there’s already two warnings and Play Protect typically uninstalls these apps anyway, without the user’s consent - in one case deleting KDE Connect from users’ devices if installed with F-Droid

    Uhh I definitely went off on a tangent, oops.


  • To answer the direct question - no

    I do have some thoughts on moving away from the Pi though - warning, heavy personal bias ahead

    If you’re looking at moving away from the Pi I would just suggest a low power x86 box, like a Nuc or some Intel N100 low-power tiny PC.

    There is a caveat though - it looks like the OctoPi project only provides OS builds for the Pi, so if you change systems it looks like you’ll need to install OctoPrint manually, and port over your config somehow.

    On ebay you can get second-hand NUCs, 6th gen and up, for practically peanuts. The cheaper quad core celeron nucs (i.e. J3455) are roughly equivalent to the 3rd and 4th gen dual-core i5s (3777u, 3230m etc) performance wise, but have an updated QuickSync encoder and support accelerated 4K video encoding/playback, handy if you want to capture timelapses of your prints or just view them live. They also consume 1/3rd of the power at around 10 watts under the same workload.

    ARM support for other vendors can be pretty flaky, sometimes even non existent. While you could pick an Orange Pi, and go with a modern community-supported distro like Armbian, it isn’t a turnkey experience like the Pi. There is much less documentation, and still some very early boards floating around with hardware defects and overheating issues (posing a fire risk in the worst case, the OPi Zero being the most egregious - literally melting the optional enclosure and killing the NIC). Some research before buying will let you know most of what you need to know - check around the forums for any common issues and dealbreakers, as well as the manufacturer’s site to get an idea of available support.

    If you want to get an idea of the alternatives you could check out Jeff Geerling’s youtube channel, he covers the Pi and occasionally videos on other alternatives, as well as issues he’s had with them and support. I’ll try and link some below…

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KghZIgkKZcs

    Check the comments on that one for a quick synopsis, as the video is quite long…

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jjzvh-bfV-E

    This video pretty much just echoes my current perspective




  • Retraction settings are probably your best bet then. Since the SV06 doesn’t use a bowden extruder, there’s much less things that could be the issue in your scenario thankfully

    To be specific about my “workaround”, it compensates for a non-flat build plate (ramped lift) and a cheap nozzle that filament often sticks to (wipe on retract). It took me two days of test prints and research to narrow those down though…

    To get to the bottom of your issue quickly, you could try tuning your retraction using a retraction test, then possibly try recording the nozzle printing the same test at 60/120fps, to play it back in slow motion. This way you can see at what part of the nozzle movement the stringing starts, and change any relevant settings accordingly



  • This looks like one of those low cost netbooks from the time where “EPad” and “MID” tablets were a thing. There is an edition of Windows CE floating around for these - but WiFi will not work, neither the modem if this has one built in.

    No idea about Linux - there is a kernel so you’re technically half way there, but considering most of these had a slow single core ARM CPU and 256MB of RAM on a good day, practical use is limited IMO











  • I do something similar for my property’s exterior cameras, which are streamed to my VPS in ‘real-time’.

    You will need to re-encode the footage - videos are already pretty well compressed, so traditional compression methods like 7z (lzma), gz, zip etc being layered on top can’t compress them further.

    For your solution, I’d probably run a find every minute w/ cron to look for these files in a staging/watch folder, move them to another folder so they aren’t picked up on the next run, then re-encode with ffmpeg. Do note that when you re-encode footage, you always lose quality, even if you’re on a high quality preset.

    I have a feeling that the Handbrake project can do this with a watch folder though, so might be worth looking into that. After a quick search this looks easier to setup than my solution:

    https://github.com/HandBrake/HandBrake
    https://github.com/shannah/handbrake-watcher