Funny I run across this after me and my kid had a long conversation about GLaDOS being an inspiration for The Absolute Solver from Murder Drones. (I say she is.)
Funny I run across this after me and my kid had a long conversation about GLaDOS being an inspiration for The Absolute Solver from Murder Drones. (I say she is.)
Meta key to the right of alt? wut?
Acer has had this policy for over 20 years. I bought a laptop long ago from a vendor that I had issues with and they refused to give me support because I was running Linux at the time. (I forget what distro. Probably either Mandrake or early Ubuntu.) That laptop went right back to the vendor.
Never bought anything from them since.
I have a Corsair Nightsword.
There’s an open source version of the software that, I don’t think, is official but works well. It can rebind, set RGB, change DPI settings, and most if not everything the official software can.
Corsair mice aren’t the best, and the problems seem to be certain versions of their mice. (M65 is garbage. I went through 6 of them in 6 months.) Nightsword has been great though. Scimitar is good as well, have one that’s 6 years old now.
Well, I got rid of KDE and I’m on Cinnamon right now, so where are these tearing issues? You think I would have noticed after over a year of use.
Why would I care what software KDE comes with? This is Linux. I can install whatever works best for me. Including the whole of KDE software suite if I so chose. You KDE fans are voracious.
better multi monitor support
I run a 3x1 setup and KDE didn’t handle it any better than Cinnamon did.
Wayland support is coming to Mint. You can actually use it on 21.3 right now but it is unstable.
Rest of what you said is opinion.
As someone who daily drives Mint, wut.
Hopefully someone recommended for you to grab the .2mm nozzle since you’re interested in minis.
Kept forgetting to tell you, you will want this for your ams and I use these for dryboxes. You can just grab some totes from the dollar tree or somewhere cheap and throw those in with the filament. Quick and easy way to keep your filament dry.
Here’s a hygrometer stand of the same type so you can keep it uniform.
Fill them with this stuff here.
Make sure it’s the rechargeable kind so you can just keep redrying it and you’ll never run out.
This is all especially important if you plan on printing PETG. PETG is affected much more by moisture than PLA.
If you mean copy/pasting the bar to the new screen/placement, I’m not sure. I’ve never gotten it to do anything other than create a new empty bar. When you look through the applets though it shows which ones you are already using and what they do so you can just click the + when you’re editing you new bar to add the thing you know you’ll want there.
Also, try out Cinnamenu, it’s better than stock start menu imo.
Well support structure will be needed on overhangs and stuff like that so don’t write it off.
I don’t use it much since I’m mostly printing things that don’t need it as they were designed to print in place.
No, no. I offered assistance.
What do I do with the white one? Put it in the last slot? Does the machine know when to use the white one as a support?
I don’t use the support filament as I have enough filament that using a bit for a model or two here or there isn’t a huge loss. However, you can use the Bambu Studio program and “paint” the support structures with that filament and it will use that instead of whatever normal filament you are using.
(Note on this, because these machines use NFC for the official bambu filaments, it might do it automatically. Don’t count on that though and always double check.)
You can keep it in your AMS anywhere you like, but for those onboard print files, it typically uses AMS slot one.
What would you consider is your favorite filament to work with? I’m thinking of splurging on a set off ebay. But at the same time, are discount filaments ok?
I love Inland filaments because I’m close to a Microcenter and can go and physically look at them before purchasing them. If you aren’t close to a Microcenter though, Inland filaments are Polymaker and eSun.
If you plan to get cheap filament, make sure you keep your bed as clean as you can because you want to rule that out immediately if there is an issue. I use Isopropyl alcohol before every print to remove any grease/oil/dust from the bed.
And do you use a special plate? People have mentioned golden ones that are easier to bend to pop out the build? Mine just scraped off fairly easy. And I’ve read to use hairspray or windex to make it easier to pop off later.
I use the standard PEI plate that comes with the machine. I allow the bed to cool off in the machine and then get the print off. Makes it much easier.
Controlling these printers is best done from a PC. Bambu Studio will give you the most options to control your prints. The Bambu Handy app works great as well but I find it limiting.
It’s ok, my dude. We all make simple mistakes like this. I’ve cost myself entire rolls of filament before. If you ever have any questions, give me a shout, I’ll give you a hand.
Yep, then right click it and click applets and add what you need them move the applets to where you want.
These printers calibrate themselves.
Not sure, I’ve never opened mine.
This is it here: https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/support-for-pla?variant=40524454723720
TDS says it’s still PLA.
Is that white filament the one that came with it? If it is, it is only meant as support material. Use the orange or green in AMS slot one and try again.
They should just stay mostly hidden as they are now. I was harassed 3 times while using kbin for my voting habits. When I brought it up to ernest, him and mostly everyone else defended it, even though at the time I was actively being annoyed by someone.
It’ll make less people vote in the long run and will scare people off.
Nothing worse than hopping on something I do for leisure to realize that thread I voted on a week ago has now come back to bite me in the ass because the OP decided to go on a crusade and harass everyone that downvoted them.