I bought the carborundum glass bed for my S1 Pro, it’s replaced my PEI bed entirely and see no reason to go back.

This is adjusted for inflation, so the PS5 Pro would be listed at its current price with no changes. $700 is the next line above the PS5 and Series X.

So it’s pretty steep, looks well above the mean, but not outrageous either.

The Neo Geo was marketed specifically to rich people. It was aimed at people who wouldn’t even look at the price tag.

Totally optional features that come set up by default are not really optional unless they’re opt-in from the start. Most users are not savvy enough to figure out how to disable that kind of stuff.

You could go visit hexbear and you’d find out pretty quickly. It’s definitely not for everyone.

I used the Arch wiki to get gamescope working on Pop OS. It’s a great resource regardless of your distro. In many cases the info on there is not even Arch-specific.

Moving from a 5600X to a 7900X3D, pretty big upgrade.

I don’t have anything important to back up, I would just like to avoid reinstalling everything, particularly my Steam library.

If I can save myself the trouble, that’s all I want. I know Windows doesn’t like that kind of upgrades and you end up with a ton of useless drivers sitting around for nothing, but I haven’t been on Windows in a couple years.

I ran it perfectly on a 33MHz 486 with 4mb RAM for a long time. Even Doom II with some of its heavier maps ran fine.

But the point was that the hardware requirements were low enough that it could be ported to just about any hardware. It ran on SNES which was like 4MHz

The reason Doom got a reputation that it can run on anything is that it did run on just about anything.

The original requirement was for a 386 CPU which ran between 12 and 40 MHz. The 386 was launched in 1985. That means that at the time the Doom was released, it could run on 8-year-old hardware.

Temple OS is a meme.

I would use organic when I have awkward shapes with overlapping areas. The branches allow you to support overlaps without building support structures directly on the lower parts. It can also be more material-efficient if you need a lot of support.

Snug I would use if I need better support on larger overhangs or long, thin areas that are likely to sag otherwise. It’s also better at holding up parts that could detach from the build plate under their own weight as you would generally have the support along the surface as it builds up, whereas organic usually only contacts the print at the exact support point. Snug supports are generally pretty easy to remove and clean up.

It’s essentially the same as having more monitors, except you can only see the active ones. Nothing changes except what your displays are showing.

If you’re not in Europe, it often ends up costing the same as just buying filament since you have to pay for shipping.

What is the risk and how can it be exploited?

There are also things that can be 3d printed that can’t be easily cast, like things with oddly-shaped holes, and hollow objects.

This is the same as asking why 3d print something when injection molding exists.

I haven’t used it yet, but I bought a cheap ruby nozzle from aliexpress. I am planning on using some abrasive filaments, but I don’t have them yet. I’m curious if it’s actually any good.

I’m switching to OS/2

That’s the standard way. It’s how (most) distros partition by default.

500%+ performance boost

To one game. Most others tested have seen a 5-15% increase in performance, and a couple have had 50% increases.