Haven’t read so can’t tell you but you will find info at https://leminal.space/post/11699480
Haven’t read so can’t tell you but you will find info at https://leminal.space/post/11699480
Cura can ignore what’s below buildplate as long as part isn’t too big for X Y axes. For cutting this, I would use 3d builder. Very easy to use. Just open model, and go to modify to cut model
While turning down temperature might help as it will be less fluid, i tend to think that increasing retraction might give him other problems (unless is settings are really low). On pictures we only see stringing at the top where printing areas are very small which means much more retraction are needed. His issue could be related to maximum retraction count and/or minimum extrusion distance, when those numbers are reached, printer will not retract filament to protect grinding too much filament. Others parameters to look out are retraction speed and prime speed but since OP didn’t share settings, no way to tell what he could try.
To OP, please share your printing settings.
Thanks mate, did make a mistake…
Might post later about my A1 as I have a question that will fit here.
Home assistant has a voice assistant but it isn’t a voice assistant. Also, you are correct it is made to control a smart home (at the moment) that also include music threw external provider (or local files) but you can’t search the internet threw it. You can either install it locally or pay for home assistant subscription which include voice assistant threw cloud.
I’m not 100% sure but this might also depend which OS you are running on your pi. Did change from SD card to SSD few years back for my home assistant setup (now running with a mini pc) at the time I went for a geekpi adapter (can’t recall exact model).
Try a quick ducduck search “sata adapter #yourOS#” and see if a list come up. Here is one for HA (but surely more models are compatible than the ones listed here) https://community.home-assistant.io/t/working-usb-enclosures-and-adapters-with-hassos/212763
Edit: as for SSD, I went for Samsung EVO model
Sidenote: all SSD will be more reliable than a sd card because they are less sensitive to rewrite counts
I don’t see why you think those are web based, usually people run this at home but glad you find what you are looking for
As far as photo librabry, you can compare the different solutions at https://github.com/meichthys/foss_photo_libraries
I have nvme setup on my pi 4 (I know it’s overkill for that purpose but already had pi setup like this prior to klipper), that being said I will definitely look at getting one with communication control even if power never goes down for more than a couple of seconds
If you make a search “ender 3 5v pin”, you will find plenty of examples on Reddit, octoprint forum and others. Problem was (or is) that printer was still getting power when OFF, it could lead to plenty of issues with worst case scenario where the mainboard died.
You definitely needs to calibrate your estep and flow rate as others mentioned. If numbers were correct then you might have a partial clog. If so, clean it and check Luke’s hotend fix on thingiverse/printable (really worth it). https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7tCxO17XZtw
Under extrusion aside, you can get better text details by using a smaller nozzle as one issue for the text clarity is line width, while it isn’t ideal you can also try to set 0.30/0.35 line width with 0.4 nozzle.
Also, if you do plug in usb from your computer to printer (to calibrate estep), make sure to cover the 5v pin on usb cable with electrical tape. Otherwise you might wreck your printer mainboard. https://community.octoprint.org/t/put-tape-on-the-5v-pin-why-and-how/13574
Just adding to your comment that if OP goes that route, he will need to cover 5v pin with some electrical tape on usb otherwise he will wreck is printer board. (Unless recent ender 3 have this issue fixed but I doubt)
I will look for a fanless ups as I’m kinda sensitive to noise and everything is setup in my living room…, I will make sure I have the mute option available.
Shouldn’t be an issue, power outage here are mostly about one second (5 at max) and even if my printer is being halted, my glass bed stick so much that my print don’t pop off by themselves, I always use a scraper even when completely cool down.
Actually I could even run Klipper on mini pc but would need a very long usb to reach printer and thought it wasn’t ideal. As for the mini pc, I’m running proxmox but I’m far from being an expert so not sure if I can manage CPU scaling.
Should have added in my post that power outage don’t last more than a few seconds so ups should be fine
“why are they separated”, not sure what you meant, mini pc is acting as a server for a few usage and pi is dedicated to klipper.
Thanks
Yeah, I only care to keep the printer running for just a few seconds but thanks for the input
What papalonian said is right, when this machine came out it was expensive but as today standard, this machine isn’t worth much so don’t spend a lot of money on it. Every plastic part that you see can be printed with your printer. Should be available in their GitHub page. Nonetheless, it’s a great printer to learn 3d printing