• 4 Posts
  • 47 Comments
Joined 1 year ago
Cake day: August 15th, 2023
  • remotelove@lemmy.cato3DPrinting@lemmy.world•Running into inconsistent extrusion when printing a circular model English
    2·
    15 days ago

    All good! It’s the same situation as I described and I see that increasing temps did help. It’s good to do a temperature tower test for quality and also a full speed test after that. After temperature calibration, print a square that is only 2 or 3 bottom layers that covers the entire bed at full speed or faster. (It’s essentially a combined adhesion/leveling/extrusion volume/z offset test, but you need to understand what you are looking at to see the issues separately.)

    If you have extrusion problems, the layer line will start strong from the corners, get thin during the acceleration and may thicken up again at the bottom of the deceleration curve. A tiny bit of line width variation is normal, but full line separation needs attention.

    Just be aware if you get caught in a loop of needing to keep bumping up temperatures as that starts to get into thermistor, heating element or even some mechanical issues/problems.

  • remotelove@lemmy.cato3DPrinting@lemmy.world•Running into inconsistent extrusion when printing a circular model English
    17·
    16 days ago

    185C is cold for PLA. It may work for slow prints, but my personal minimum has always been around 200C and my normal print temperature is usually at 215C.

    Long extrusions are probably sucking out all the heat from the nozzle and it’s temporarily jamming until the filament can heat up again.

    Think of the hotend as a reservoir for heat. For long extrusions, it will drain really fast. Once the hotend isn’t printing for a quick second, it will fill back up really fast. At 185C, you are trying to print without a heat reservoir. I mean, it’ll work, but not during intense or extended extrusions.

  • remotelove@lemmy.cato3DPrinting@lemmy.world•Should a 3D printer be used for making unnatural Franken-drills? I dunno but it absolutely canEnglish
    2·
    2 months ago

    Yes, and also… Please make a good faith attempt to understand allowable continuous discharge rates for the batteries. (Spoiler: Most battery packs are going to be well within a safe range and may also limit output current.)

    For example: If a drill has a maximum current draw of 2 amps and the pack is only capable of discharge rate of 1 amp, you are risking a thermal runaway condition. (Lithium batteries get esplody in those conditions.)

    Battery packs generally use a series-parallel wiring arrangement to decrease per-cell discharge and any protection circuits should limit total current draw. Knockoff battery packs may lack protection circuits, but for this specific problem the way the batteries are wired should prevent or limit any issues.

    (I get a bit preachy when it comes to battery safety. Sorry. Many people simply do not realize how energy-dense our device batteries are these days.)

  • remotelove@lemmy.caOPto3DPrinting@lemmy.world•Resin printing. A call for information. (White papers, documented research or testing data)English
    1·
    2 months ago

    I’ll make a post here with a link to GitHub when I set everything up and PrusaSlicer is gutted. That should be the easy part as I have the Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer projects to reference. Support placement and model orientation code is “good enough” in PrusaSlicer to give this thing a good start.

    I’ll need to learn the codebase for UVTools as well since the utilities those folks have written is phenomenal. (UVTools works off of already sliced models, so that will take some thought about how to integrate things like island detection.)

    (The plan is to make something useful enough that real developers who need the same things will get pissed off enough at the quality of my future code to write something respectable.)