Having a 3d printer is super convenient for any home or shop repairs I need to make. I have so many curtain spacers and custom hooks all over the place now. The key is to get some hours in Fusion or some other good CAD software so you can whip up custom parts in minutes. You may get it wrong the first few times, but a couple minutes of tweaks and then you have a new part printing while you go back to working on other stuff.

The Swedish Maker just put out a video about how transformative 3d printing has been for his workflow. https://youtu.be/p2bClWmKHRM

Awesome project!

HughesNet set my expectations, StarLink blew my mind. Props to SpaceX for drastically exceeding my expectations over the past few years.

I buy samples from Atomic Filament when I don’t know which filament would work best for a project. They are 50g spools for under $4 each. It is usually enough filament to print out a filament sample card and a small test piece.

o7

Use an x-acto knife or a $5 PTFE cutter for best results.

Amazing how that Saturday I set aside to build a Voron2 turned into a weeklong adventure. Then the mods, troubleshooting of mods, ERCF, and building of a Trident consumed so much more time. I guess that is just Voron Life.

I would never use a printer without z-tilt adjust as well. The bed is trammed using motors automatically and then the bed mesh just accounts for surface flatness.

Looking at the product page, this appears to be a sensor/indicator you put on a camera/monitor to determine if the shot is level. It probably has a microcontroller doing sensor fusion of gyroscopic/accelerometer sensors to present a smooth result.

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Your first layer seems inconsistent. What z sensor are you using? Were these printed in quick succession or did the printer have time to cool?

My thinking is this could be due to thermal drift in your homing sensor. First print will be solid, then subsequent prints will have a warmed up sensor resulting in a different z offset. Try minimizing variables by making your preheating consistent. Or just baby step the z-axis during the print start.

Do you have any pictures of the broken part?

Keyboard looks great! Did you laser the keycaps directly on the keyboard or in some sort of holder?

Great tip! I spent a long time chasing issues with TPU only to realize the spool to extruder section was the culprit. Bypassed the runout sensor and put the spool on bearings to fix the issue.

The heat lamp did help for the couple parts I was having issues with. I now mostly use a mini trident for most of my ABS printing. The heat lamp only comes out when I need to do a large print on the Voron2.

There was a Nero3D (Canuck Creator) video a while back where he said acrylic is better at insulating than ACM so I went from ACM to acrylic. Plus the smoked translucent acrylic looks better. I bought the ACM from PrintedSolid originally and have since reused it for other projects.

I have the nevermore under my Voron2 300 and it still struggles with prints like you posted. Switching from ACM to Plexiglass panels helped improved insulation somewhat. The hack that I use in a pinch for big prints is a terrarium heat lamp with temp control hanging from the top of the printer.

Chamber temps need to be higher for such a long skinny print because it will contract significantly lengthwise. The fun part is that if you get better bed adhesion without higher chamber temps then it could bend the whole bed sheet into a taco temporarily. Try setting your bed at 110C for an hour before printing with the part fan blowing on the center of the bed to help circulate the air.

Do you happen to know what your chamber temperature was? Ideally, you want to be at 60C to minimize stress cracks like that. ABS shrinks as it cools and will rip itself apart depending on the geometry of the part. My large printer needed a fan blowing on the bed to get reliable ABS prints. Well worth it though because ABS is a joy to post-process.

For bed adhesion, I use a small amount of Nano Polymer Adhesive on textured PEI for my ABS prints.

Lying down would be hard to print due to the hollow cavity where the charger goes. You could split it into two separate sections and then glue it together. Easier solution is to model or drill a 2mm hole through the part and glue a piece of filament in place to give it some strength.

The Voron printers are a good example of conservative design philosophy. Trident and v2.4 both use AC mains because the bed is relatively stationary. Voron V0 uses DC because it is a small bed. Voron Switchwire uses DC because it is a bed slinger design and moves around so much.