So I was attempting to install kevinakasam’s belt mod and I’m fairly sure I stripped the thread that holds the M4 screw in the outer right side of the X axis profile (the side without the extruder attached to the tensioner). How screwed am I? Could I get away with trying Loctite red?
Edit: Thanks a ton everyone, I’ll keep you all up to date when I try to finish the project this weekend!
My question was rooted in how you would know the quality/hardness of the steel at time of purchase - especially as a (fairly) layperson.
I think my set is dewalt. It included taps, dies, and drill bits for M3-M7. I don’t think I’ve ever used the drills, and the have gotten a lot more use than the dies, but I think I’ve used almost everything in the kit more than once. Before kids, it was cars. Post kids, it’s mostly cheap Chinese furniture my wife buys that I have to chase threads in to get it to assembly well.
I’ve had pretty good success sizing 3D printed holes to be interference fit. That’s how I designed/printed the bed leveling thumb wheels for my i3 clone. They backed off far less frequently than the stock metal once.
Mostly by the cost? As for sets, they’re going to be 200+ easy.
Theres also some difference in tolerances, but to be honest, a super tight tolerance is a double edged sword. Bulk-produced bolts won’t be as tight anyhow.
For casual/infrequent uses, it’s totally fine to get the inexpensive ones. (I’d recommend going to a local hardware store, they tend to have not totally-removedty sets and most sizes/threads individually.)
Also, for printed parts, you can absolutely just cut in with the bolt, unless your printer is somewhat inconsistent, a with a well-calibrated printer, all you really need to know is how much your holes tend to shrink (the thermal contraction as the plastic causes the final diameter to be smaller. This is why we invented test prints…… well. Not me. Somebody’s smarter than me.)